Kenmore Refrigerator Not Cooling – If the Kenmore refrigerator freezer is barely a year old, you cannot support but worry about the fridge compartment warming up when the freezer is cold.
Now, you can’t support but ask, why is my Kenmore fridge not cooling but freezer working? Your Kenmore fridge is cooling, but the freezer is simply working because of iced evaporator coils, faulty damper control or fan motor, fridge overload, leaky door, or injured start relay. Other reasons comprise dirty condenser coils or faulty temperature control or defrost system.
Kenmore Refrigerator Not Cooling
Once you can categorize the exact reason behind your failing Kenmore fridge, it simply becomes much calmer to fix it, and that’s where this Kenmore troubleshooting guide comes in.
We will break down all the possible reasons, explaining their likelihood and suggesting fixes.
Now, the goal is to enable you to do the troubleshooting yourself and simply get to save both valued time and money.
Reasons Kenmore Refrigerator Not Cooling But Freezer is Working Plus Fixes
If your Kenmore fridge is not cooling while the freezer is freezing just fine, you simply cannot look beyond the nine motives discussed below:
- Iced Evaporator Coils
Air goes into the evaporator coils to cool down before mingling throughout the fridge. Inappropriately, sometimes the coils become frosted, simply making the refrigerator warm when it should be cold.
Now, in such an event, the fridge won’t cool, and the freezer will work fine. The most typical reason is a faulty defrost system, especially the heater, thermostat, or timer.
Then, if the defrost heater fails, it won’t melt the ice, meaning ice will probably build up on the evaporator coils, and even if the heater is fine, but the defrost thermometer is defective, the heater won’t get the signal to defrost the amassing ice. Briefly, if the defrost timer is faulty, it won’t control the heating or cooling cycle.
First, consider hair-drying the evaporator coils to defrost the amassed ice. However, if the problem is a faulty defrost timer, thermostat, or heater, you might need to replace it. We’ll explain how you can check if they are faulty under point 8 on the faulty defrost system.
- Faulty Damper Control
The damper control’s job is to regulate the amount of air that flows into the fridge. Generally, its operation is dependent on smooth opening and closing. Now, if the regulator becomes stuck or broken, it won’t do its job. Hence, the fridge might warm up instead of getting cold.
Usually, you can simply tell if the damper control is faulty by inspecting it. You’ll need to turn the fan motor on by dipping the thermistor’s temperature.
You’ll then simply need to cover the unit’s interior light to trick it into thinking that the refrigerator door is shut. Now, if you can’t feel some air escaping the damper vent, the damper control is probably defective. Consequently, check if it’s stuck to unstick it but if it’s broken, simply replace it.
- Faulty Motor Fan
The evaporator fan motor is important in cooling the Kenmore refrigerator. The motor draws in cold air and socializes it over the fridge’s evaporator coils and freezer.
If the circulation only occurs in the freezer compartment, the freezer will freeze, but the fridge section will become warm.
You can simply test the evaporator fan motor by hand to see if it’s defective. You need to just try moving the blade with your hand. The fan motor is defective if it doesn’t turn effortlessly and there’s no obstruction. Therefore, simply replace it.
- Fridge Overload
While it’s tempting to overfill the fridge when stocking it up, it’s never a decent idea as it can interfere with the cooling.
You need to remember, the more you load your fridge, the less space you simply leave for air circulation. Furthermore, you even block the air vents, simply making it harder for air to flow interiorly.
You need to check your Kenmore fridge load to see if the food is in excess. If it is, then you should simply reduce it and simply find food items almost expiring and take them out for instant consumption. You must also create the containers correctly and avoid oversize choices not to block the air vents.
- Leaky Fridge Door
Now, so much could go wrong with the fridge door, simply causing it to leak cold air. Now, for starters, if you fail to close the fridge door tight, cold air will escape, causing the fridge to become warm.
Now, as you know, the words warm and refrigeration are not well-matched. Consequently, the fridge won’t cool. The other source of a leaky fridge door is a worn-out, injured, or loose door seal/gasket.
Now, such a door seal is faulty and will therefore permit warm air to get in, simply warming up the fridge.
You need to ensure you correctly close the fridge door and simply remove anything that could be stopping it from closing all the way if the door gasket is defective, simply replace it.
- Damaged Start Relay
Occasionally, people rush to replace the entire compressor when their fridges won’t cool when the only defective component is the compressor’s start relay.
Now, while the compressor’s job is to form hot gas, which cools and fascinates the fridge’s heat, its operation is reliant on the start relay. If the start relay is defective, the compressor will fail, and the fridge won’t cool your food.
You need to use a multimeter to test the compressors’ start relay for continuity. If it fails the continuity test, replace it as it’s defective.
- Dirty Condenser Coils
Now, it’s hard to talk about the fridge cooling without stating the condenser coils. Now, over time, the coils accumulate dust and dirt, simply making it hard for them to cool the fridge.
It’s usually advisable to clean the condenser coils at least once every six months. That’ll eliminate the dirt and help keep the condenser coils working optimally. Now, for easy cleaning, consider using a refrigerator coil scrubbing brush.
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